Vietnam – Day 11 – Mỹ Sơn
Today I rode to Mỹ Sơn. Mỹ Sơn is a site of ancient ruins of Hindu temples worshipping Shiva. It was built beginning the 4th century AD through the 12th century during the Cham empire. It is an active archeological dig site as they uncover more of the abandoned ruins.
The hour drive there was a quick and pleasant one. I left Hoi An around 7:30 to try to beat the heat and the crowds. On the way I passed a couple of tour buses. When I arrived, I was one of the first tourists there, but didn’t beat all of the buses there.
After parking and paying the entrance fee, a tram brought me and a group of Koreans, I think, up to the site. I think they were Koreans because it seems most of the (Asian) tourists are Korean.
So a word to the traveler that doesn’t like to walk and isn’t in reasonably good shape. Don’t come to Vietnam. All of the things to see involve walking, climbing steps, and more walking. Mỹ Sơn was no different.
The site was a large loop with unearthed and partially restored buildings. The Korean group started with the exit. This was the most direct way to the main ruins. I started with the entrance. Along the way there were multiple sites with interesting stone carvings depicting various Hindu deities. Best of all, I was alone at these first few sites.
Many times the structures that were being restored we’re destroyed from bombings during the Vietnam War. You may notice in some of my pictures the craters still exist around the buildings.
I know I mentioned this earlier but it really saddens me to see the destruction of cultural history from the wars fought here. In much of the Vietnamese description of themselves they talk about their resiliency. For awhile I thought this was like a needy child wanting recognition. Now I think it is because over 40 years later there are still very visible constant reminders including unexploded bombs in this jungles. But they still have high spirits and positive dispositions toward American in spite of this and their poorness. They are still very poor. The vast majority of the Vietnamese people I have met here, not including “scooter boy” and his scooter friends, are sincere, honest and hard working. Ok…enough of that.
When I got to the main dig site there were tourists everywhere and the heat was oppressive. Inside the small stone buildings was cooler. In one such building, I followed a tour group inside. There were no windows and very little light. About ten people were inside a ten by ten space gathered around an alter in the center. There wasn’t much to see. So I left, and just in time. As I started to exit through the long and narrow entry corridor, not one but two perhaps three groups of tourists started filing in like lemmings squeezing into the space. It was like an ancient clown car full of Koreans. I got a chuckle out of that but didn’t wait around to see the turmoil that would ensue. It was too hot.
That was the last stop so I headed for the museum at the entrance. There wasn’t much there as all of the significant artifacts like statues and carvings had been taken to the heritage museum in Da Nang.
The drive back was pleasant too. I stopped to snap some photos along the way.
Back in Hoi An it was crazy hot. I fit my shirts grabbed a late lunch of bánh mì (which means bread, and/or sandwich) and hid from the heat. While cowering in the A/C of my hostel I made my arrangements for tomorrow. Tomorrow I go to Saigon.
That evening I ventured to the night market again. Not before downing four free…at the hostel…rum and cokes. The night market was as exciting as ever and I ate and ate.
Erik, Amazing adventure! Thanks for sharing with us. Angie just sent this link and I am in awe of your detailed accounts of your journey, We are keeping up! Have fun!
The writing helps with reflections on the day. I think I should keep a journal more often. 😊 I just posted the last entry for Vietnam. Enjoy!
I am extremely impressed how much you have learned without a tour guide. I am learning so much from you! Would love to visit one day…..